You may choose to measure the light positions with a ruler to ensure precision. With the top off your letter, you’re ready to mark the positions for the “lights.” I recommend doing this at this point, before it’s painted, because it is easier to correct a mis-mark. These will be less frequent if you use a very sharp razor blade. If there are any snags or whatever, use your razor blade to “shear” them off. Use the razor blade to carefully lift and remove the top of the letter.Įmpty the inside of the paper mache letter box, if there’s anything inside. Also, angle your razor blade toward the center of the letter box for a sharper, more precise cut. Tip: Corners are key for a crisp, clean look. Lay one letter flat on your work surface. I started with a semi-sharp blade and had a bit of cleanup to do on the inside edges. Paper hole reinforcement circles (not shown)Įnsure your razor blade is new or very sharp.

Razor blade with very sharp (new) blades.Paper mache letters (example uses 15” letters: N, O, E, L, and V).This tutorial uses papermache letters, painted copper, with non-electrical “lights” for stand-alone faux marquee signage. Plus, with this DIY tutorial, they can be rearranged to say any word (or words) you want. Marquee signs can be customized for size and color. There are many available for sale, but these also make a great DIY project. Marquee signs make a particularly magical seasonal decoration. They add a great retro, industrial feel to any space.

Diy marquee letters